Lately, I’ve been seeing a whole lot of sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s actually inspiring me-however there’s one detail that I don’t want to incorporate in my me-made underwear: jacquard elastic webbing.

If you’ve ever made underwear before, you most likely know that many ending strategies for the legholes and waistline embody elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t know about you, however none of my ready-to-wear underwear have elastic in the legs-and generally they don’t within the waist either. This is the kind of underwear I like best.

So, where does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, however I wish to make my very own underwear. That is where knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to show you tips on how to swap elastic for a knit band to complete your underwear!

You’ll Need:

– Fabric

– Pattern

– Tape measure

– Ruler

– Extra paper

– Pencil

How one can Draft and Sew a Knit Band

Let’s do this.

Make sure your fabric meets the stretch necessities stated within the pattern you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.

If you’re utilizing a Seamwork pattern, it features a stretch guide that will help you see if the fabric you need to use has sufficient stretch in it. Listed here are some Seamwork patterns you need to use:

– The Geneva panties are a basic selection, especially if you’d like to use stretch lace.

– The Kaye shorts are perfect for biker-short type underwear.

– The Dana underwear would work effectively with a knit band as a substitute of elastic.

– The new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You can make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.

Cut your pattern out and sew collectively all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment except for the leg holes and waist.

Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you decide how lengthy your knit bands need to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I should do some math.

Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favourite, but we acquired this!

You need some math because for those who cut the knit band the same size as the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You want to seek out the right quantity of adverse ease on your knit band to remain in place and fit securely-however comfortably-to your body.

I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she advised me to observe a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the whole circumference of the opening.

I would like to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a great place to start out! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, it’s possible you’ll should do some testing to get the right circumference. You can all the time baste your band to your underwear to check the fit first.

So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I cut my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.

My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I lower my waistband at 31 inches.

I need my bands to be a bit wider, so I minimize them 2 inches large, but you can also make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go below 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. For those who minimize your bands too slender, they might need some more bulk at the seam allowance. Should you cut them too extensive, you could have problems fitting your gusset.

Sew the two short ends of your knit band collectively. If you have any inquiries relating to where and ways to utilize knitted elastic band buy, you can call us at our web page. Press the seam to 1 aspect. Helpful hint: If you’re utilizing a serger, use just one needle to cut down on bulk when serging.

Press the band in half lengthwise.

With mistaken sides collectively, baste the uncooked edge.

With proper sides together, pin the knit band evenly along the leg gap. You will have to stretch the knit band as you go.

A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.

Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You’ll be able to see this in motion in this video tutorial for including a knit band on our YouTube channel.

Press the seam allowance in direction of the underwear and knitted elastic webbing topstitch with a narrow zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.

Now repeat that very same course of on your different leg hole and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you simply made! Great job!

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Taylor Pruitt

UX Designer

Taylor has a watch for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she needs to verify your on-line experiences are enjoyable and gratifying.